How to Spot Cards Worth Regrading (and Why It Still Works)

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Most collectors buy the grade.
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​Smarter collectors buy the card.

The collectors who consistently win?
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They hunt cards that are under-graded or mislabeled—and upgrade them for instant value.

In a market true scarcity matters (in my opinion at least) this is one of the few edges that still works—mainly because most people don’t know how to spot it.

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Why misgrades exist (and always will)

Grading isn’t perfectly objective.

Over time, standards have shifted — not dramatically, but enough to create real opportunities:

• Different graders emphasize different flaws
• Companies historically evaluated certain eras and sets differently
• Some grading periods were stricter (or looser) than others

So:

• Two PSA 3s are not always the same card
• And PSA 3 vs SGC 3 vs BVG 3 can look very different in eye appeal

If you know what “strong for the grade” looks like, you gain leverage.

Quick checklist: how spot an upgrade candidate

Use hi-res images and zoom the image to 200%:

• Centering: look for cards within set norms; that appear strong for the grade. A good example is the 1969 Topps Reggie Jackson which is almost always found severely off-centered. A nicely centered copy in a low to mid grade that has good eye appel has upgrade potential.
• Registration & focus: look for crisp player details; no color fringing, this goes a long way in a potential undergade to upgrade.
• Corners/edges: seek cards with honest wear but uniform; no pinches on the corners or major indentations.
• Surface: avoid paper loss if possible (although some cards might pass the test). Look for faint wrinkles under light which might be the deciding reason for a card’s grade penalty.
• Back: no erasures, stains, or wax that would cap the ceiling.

If the card looks a grade or two better than the label—and there’s no hidden crease—you’ve likely found edge!

Example: a “2” that looks like a “4”

Here’s a recent example I came across: a PSA 2 Walter Payton Rookie Card that, at first glance, shows far stronger eye appeal than what you’d expect for the grade.
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Now — I haven’t inspected this card in-hand, so there could be a crease or subtle surface wrinkle that explains the grade. But visually, the centering, color, and registration all look much closer to a PSA 4 level card.

This is where the opportunity comes from.

If you can buy a card like this at the PSA 2 price, but it looks like a 4 or 5 to the eye?

That’s the hidden value play.
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Regrade vs. crossover (decision tree)

• Same company re-submit: viable if the slab is older or the grade is borderline; request a review or crack/regrade.
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• Crossover to another company: use a Minimum Grade to avoid downside (e.g., “cross only if 4 or higher”).
  • PSA → SGC: often fair/consistent on vintage registration.
  • PSA → BVG: can help when corners are softer but centering shines.
  • SGC → PSA: sometimes improves liquidity/comp values on key issues.

Costs/Risks: grading + shipping/insurance ($30–$100+), turnaround time, and the chance it doesn’t bump.
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​Upside: a one- or two-grade bump can mean hundreds to thousands on the right card.

This is not gambling—it’s applied skill. You’re replacing someone else’s opinion with your own, backed by process.

Next Week: The Full Playbook

I’m finishing a detailed guide with:

• Real before/after upgrade examples
• How to use “Min Grade” safely
• A printable inspection checklist
• Photo comparisons that show exactly what to look for

You’ll get it in the next issue.

Same inbox. Same time.

Until then —
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Collect with patience. Buy with intention.
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Buy the card, not the label.

The Smarter Way to Collect.

Note we also just published a new article on displaying your cards,
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